by Klara JB Jakobsen
It is really quite hard to imagine what it is like being on a yacht in the most rural place on earth, surrounded by icebergs, breaching Humpback Whales, hunting Killer Whales, and huge colonies of Penguins. That is why I wanted to talk to someone who has been there and who knows what this place is all about.
Simon Pamor has worked many years in conservation in several rural parts of Australia and Antarctica. He has also completed a circumnavigation of the globe in the Southern Ocean.
I chose Simon Pamor not only based on his insigts into Antarctica charter tourism but also for his commitment to conservation. While Simon wishes for people to experience this remote region, he emphasizes that mindful, sustainable tourism practices are crucial to preserving its fragile environment.
We are fortunate that Simon is not only passionate about sharing his stories but also has a remarkable ability to vividly convey the beauty of this otherworldly place.
Could you explain briefly what you were doing in Antarctica?
Although I’ve skippered yachts in other areas of the Antarctic and in the Arctic, on the Peninsula, this time I was First Mate on the mighty Ocean Tramp, a vessel operated by Quixote Expedition, running scientific charters. This suited me well as being First Mate is A LOT less stressful than being the skipper!
What were your absolute favorite locations on the Antarctic Peninsula?
My favorite place on the Peninsula is a hard one to single out. We were lucky in that we were running a small sailing vessel, so we could tuck into small anchorages that many other vessels and people couldn’t visit. Some of my favorite locations include Deception Island, Enterprise Island, and Hovgaard Island.
The latter is a tiny anchorage with a very complex entry. The skipper needs to reverse the yacht in and around a rock in a very narrow channel, drop the anchor as they are reversing and turning, and then 4 shore lines must be run to keep the vessel secure. Once in, you are tucked away in a perfect keyhole with a jaw-dropping backdrop of stunning mountains and snowy Islands. Zodiac tours introduce you to Penguins, Leopard Seals, sea birds, Humpback Whales, and Orca. But to be fair, you are almost certain to encounter these animals all over the Peninsula!
What was your most memorable experience from your sailing in Antarctica?
Between the wildlife, scenery, endless variations and tones of blue in the icebergs, and the pure feeling of the place, it’s really hard to pick a favorite.
Being on a dead, silent, drifting vessel which is surrounded by bubble-net-feeding Humpback Whales is an experience that I will never forget (well, experiences, I guess, as we had this happen multiple times!), watching Orca hunt their unlucky prey, and drifting past Leopard Seals lounging on ice-flows. Just the pure beauty and uniqueness of each and every iceberg are all amazing experiences.
The sounds you will start to notice will amaze you…
Something I absolutely recommend is finding somewhere quiet and just stopping and listening (either when you are on the water or on land). The sounds you will start to notice will amaze you…chattering penguins, the melodic tinkle of water melting off icebergs, creaks and groans from glaciers and ice fields…there’s a whole side to Antarctica that many miss by not slowing down.
I felt absolutely awed to be able to see and visit the same places as some of my Antarctic heroes who sailed and explored these waters when they were still vast, blank areas on the map. To be there and imagine them trying to navigate these waters in the vessels of their day with no charts or prior knowledge was amazing.
Is there anything you wish you had known before going?
I’m very lucky to have spent a bit of time at sea and in the high latitudes, so I felt well-equipped for this adventure. But my advice to anyone visiting these areas would be to listen to their guides at all times! From what to pack (yes, you do need a second pair of dry gloves!) to how to go about observing wildlife (stay quiet and leave them their distance!). Your guides are the experts here – use their knowledge to your advantage!
What advice would you give to someone who is considering a luxury charter to Antarctica?
Stop and look at where you are!
When you are in transit, at anchorage, on a tour, whatever it is, just stop and observe. It is tempting to try and capture every moment with your camera, but to be honest, it is impossible to convey the scale, textures, colors, and overall feeling of the landscape. By stopping and just observing it, soaking it in, and letting the place wash over you, you will notice some of the millions of tiny details that you could never capture or possibly convey to others.
The way the shadow shifts across that icy rock face, the depths and hues of blue in that iceberg and how they change as it slowly drifts past, the impossible variation in an “all white” landscape, the hanging spray of a pod of Fin-Whales silhouetted against a sinking sun… These are some of the most magical things about the Peninsula that are so easily missed if you are always trying to capture the perfect photo or tucked up in your bunk until you get to your next anchorage.
Appreciate that you are observing wild animals in a wild place:
Everyone is going to see and observe different things and have different experiences. On some trips, you might see more Orca hunts and breaching Humpbacks than you could possibly have imagined, and on other trips, you may not. Don’t compare your trip to others, but appreciate that you are experiencing a truly unique experience.
What is it like being at the mercy of the Antarctic weather?
The Antarctic is a wild place. Even if we are lucky enough to visit these areas with a touch of luxury, there will be aspects of your trip that are out of the control of your guides, crew, and skipper. The weather is all mighty down there, and she dictates the schedule and itinerary. Let go and enjoy being at her mercy. There’s no bad weather, just different experiences.
Do you wish to make a comment on conservation and environmental impacts in Antarctica?
Human visitation to Antarctica presents very real biosecurity risks, as people can spread diseases (such as Avian Influenza) from place to place. In addition, not following wildlife observation guidelines and protocols can disrupt animals and impact their routines, including courtship, breeding, feeding, etc.
I believe people often set out with good intentions, but when they are amongst the prolific (and endlessly entertaining) wildlife, they either think that they are special and that the rules don’t apply to them when they want to get their photo, or they simply forget and inadvertently go astray.
These missteps have real impacts on the areas we visit, so we have an obligation to follow the visitation guidelines and behave responsibly.
Appreciate a truly magical and fragile part of our planet…
In addition to direct impacts, we have to be realistic and acknowledge that any travel, tourism, and visitation to these areas (or anywhere) has very real environmental impacts. I am not going to say that people should not go; that would be hypocritical, but I will say that they should be very honest with themselves about why they want to go
Are you going there to really immerse yourself and appreciate a truly magical and fragile part of our planet? Are you going to take these experiences with you for life and finish your trip having learned some of the lessons these regions offer? Or are you just going to try to take some photos and collect stories to tell at your next dinner party? We all need to be realistic and weigh up if our experiences outweigh or justify the real impacts of our travel and visitation.
Visiting these areas is a real privilege and your actions matter. Behave responsibly (even if you think others aren’t). After your trip, ask how you can help – can you become an ambassador for these wild places? Help to fund important research programs? Donate to other environmental projects? Our visitation to these areas has an unavoidable impact, but I guess I try to find ways to balance these impacts (as best I can) and give something back, rather than just take things away.
